Tracking Mounts in Astrophotography: Basics and a Step-by-Step StarGuider Pro Guide
- kolb-telieps
- May 25
- 8 min read
Why Use a Tracking Mount for Astrophotography?
In astrophotography, the Earth’s rotation causes stars to appear to drift across the sky over time. This means that long exposure photos will show stars as trails or blurred streaks if the camera is fixed on a tripod. A tracking mount (or “star tracker”) counteracts this by rotating your camera at the same rate as the Earth, keeping stars sharp and point-like during long exposures. In essence, the mount “follows” the stars, allowing you to capture faint night-sky detail without star trailing. This capability is crucial for deep-sky and Milky Way photography, where exposure times of tens of seconds or even minutes are often needed for a good image.
In this blog post, I will only discuss parallactic tracking because it offers the greatest benefit for astrophotography. I have explained this in more detail in my YouTube video. Please have the subtitles translated into English.
Beginner Star Trackers vs. Advanced Mounts
For those starting out or shooting wide-field nightscapes, compact star tracker mounts are popular. These portable devices attach between your tripod and camera, providing just enough tracking for a DSLR or mirrorless camera with a light lens. Common examples include:
Omegon MiniTrack LX-Quadro: A mechanical tracker that doesn’t even require power (wind-up mechanism) .
iOptron SkyGuider Pro: A small motorized tracker for DSLRs and mirrorless cameras (this device will be our detailed example below).
These star trackers are recommended for astrophotography with wide-angle lenses or light telephoto lenses – perfect for Milky Way shots, constellations and bright celestial objects.
For more advanced needs – like using heavier telephoto lenses or telescopes – larger equatorial mounts are more appropriate:
Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer (Pro Kit): A modular tracker that can be extended with counterweights for better balance.
Sky-Watcher EQ5 and 6: Sturdy equatorial mount for small telescopes or telephotos .
These larger mounts can carry more weight and track more precisely, enabling longer exposures and use of heavy optics. They are available with GoTo functions. They are recommended for longer focal lengths, deep-sky astrophotography, or more advanced setups . Keep in mind they are less portable than the tiny trackers and usually require a dedicated power source and tripod.
Choosing the Right Tracking Mount
When deciding on a tracking mount, consider the following factors:
Load Capacity: Ensure the mount can handle at least 1.5× the total weight of your camera, lens, and any accessories. Mounts perform best when not pushed to their maximum capacity – a common guideline is to use only about 70% of the stated capacity for optimal tracking .
GoTo vs. Manual: Some trackers simply turn at sidereal speed, while more advanced mounts have GoTo systems to automatically find and track objects. A GoTo system is not necessary for wide-field Milky Way shots, but it makes locating dim objects much easier as you progress to deep-sky targets .
Portability versus Stability: There is a trade-off between a lightweight travel-friendly tracker and a heavy, solid mount. If you plan to hike to dark sites, a compact star tracker is ideal. For backyard or observatory use with a telescope, a larger, heavier mount (with a sturdy tripod or pier) will provide better stability for long exposures .
Software & Autoguiding Compatibility: Think about how you will control the mount. Many star trackers run standalone or with simple phone apps, while bigger mounts may connect to software like ASI AIR or PC programs (e.g., N.I.N.A.) for automated control and autoguiding . If you aim for multi-minute exposures or telescope work, ensure your mount can interface with an autoguider and computer when needed.
By evaluating these aspects, you can pick a mount that fits your astrophotography goals – whether it is a simple, grab-and-go Milky Way rig or a more advanced deep-sky imaging setup.
Step-by-Step Example:
Setting Up the iOptron SkyGuider Pro
To illustrate how a tracking mount is used in practice, let us walk through setting up a popular star tracker: the iOptron SkyGuider Pro. This is a lightweight equatorial tracker often recommended to beginners. The principles here apply to similar trackers (like the Star Adventurer). We will cover everything from balancing the gear to polar aligning the tracker. By following these steps, you can achieve sharp, pinpoint stars in your photos with this device.
Essential astrophotography setup gear: a sturdy tripod, the iOptron SkyGuider Pro star tracker with its polar wedge and a camera with lens. It’s helpful to have all parts assembled in daylight before you head out at night. A smartphone with a polar alignment app is also useful for aligning to Polaris.
Step 1: Prepare Your Equipment – It’s best to get all components ready before night falls. Here’s your pre-session checklist:
Gather the gear and check if the star tracker has enough power
Set approximate latitude: Adjust the wedge (polar height) to roughly your observing latitude. Most trackers have a degree scale – for example, around 50° if you are in central Europe. This will be fine-tuned later, but an initial setup saves time .
Attach mounting hardware: Fix the ball head onto the tracker’s mounting plate or directly onto the tracker’s dec adapter, as instructed for your model . Also attach your camera to its plate or L-bracket, and ensure those screws are tight.
Verify all parts and tools: Double-check that you have any required adapter screws (for instance, many trackers need a 3/8” to 1/4” thread adapter between tripod and tracker) and that all knobs and clamps (on the tripod, tracker, ball head, etc.) are present and functional . It’s frustrating to discover a missing piece under the stars!
Prepare a polar finder app: Install a Polar alignment app (like iOptron’s “Polar Scope” app) on your phone and ensure your phone’s date, time, and GPS location are accurate for it to compute Polaris’s position . A red flashlight is also handy for reading settings in the dark without ruining your night vision.
Step 2: Set Up the Tripod –Ideally, start during twilight when you can still see your equipment but before it’s fully dark. Try to get the tripod as horizontal as possible . A level base ensures the tracker’s movements are accurate and makes polar alignment easier.
Pro tip: If it’s windy or the ground is soft, hang a weight (like your camera bag) from the center of the tripod to stabilize it .
Also consider the tripod height: Since you will need to look through the tracker’s polar scope, it is convenient to set the tripod so that when you sit on a stool, the polar scope is at eye level . This can save your neck from strain later!
Step 3: Mount the Star Tracker (Coarse Alignment) – Now attach the SkyGuider Pro onto the tripod (or onto the tripod’s head if you are using one). If your tracker uses a separate polar wedge, secure that to the tripod first, then mount the tracker onto the wedge .
Rotate the whole tracker roughly towards true north.
Using the polar scope for fine alignment: After roughly pointing the tracker north, you will sight Polaris through the SkyGuider Pro’s polar scope (left image). The smartphone app (right image) shows where Polaris should be placed on the reticle at that date and time. By adjusting the tracker’s altitude and azimuth screws, you align the star in the scope to match the app’s indicated position, accurately polar-aligning the mount.
Step 4: Precise Polar Alignment – Once Polaris is visible in the night sky, you can perform the fine polar alignment. Turn on the SkyGuider Pro’s motor – the power LED should light up (red). Also check that the tracker is set to the correct tracking rate (usually 1× sidereal speed for stars) and hemisphere.
Now, look through the tracker’s polar scope (you may need to kneel or use that stool). If you do not immediately see Polaris in the polar scope’s field, gently rotate the entire tripod left-right (or use the azimuth knobs on the wedge) until Polaris enters the view . Use the altitude adjustment screw on the wedge to move the star up or down, and the azimuth knobs to move it left or right . Get Polaris roughly centered in the polar scope view.
Next, open your Polar alignment app on the phone. It will show the current position where Polaris should sit on the polar scope’s reticle (often a small circle somewhere off-center). Now adjust the mount’s altitude and azimuth finely so that Polaris in the polar scope sits exactly at the indicated position on the reticle. This aligns the tracker’s axis precisely with the North Celestial Pole.
Step 5: Attach the Camera and Balance the Setup –If the setup is unbalanced, the camera could cause the RA axis to swing or even slip.
Let go of the camera briefly to test the balance – but be ready to catch it if it starts to swing. Ideally, the camera and lens should not immediately flop to one side. If it does, you need to balance the setup: Adjust the camera’s position by sliding the L-bracket or plate slightly forward or backward in the clamp, or re-position the ball head, so that the camera’s center of gravity is over the tracker’s rotation axis.
Once balanced, tighten the RA clutch again. Also, secure all clamps – the camera’s quick release, the ball head orientation, etc. – so nothing can move or sag. Now is a good time to focus your lens on a bright star or distant light, since you have got the camera mounted. Use manual focus (and ideally live view with zoom on a bright star) to get sharp focus, because refocusing in the dark is tricky.
If needed, you can refer to techniques for focusing in astrophotography – a whole topic on its own. You may want to watch the YouTube video with English subtitles.
Step 6: Test Tracking with Short Exposures with a higher ISO and shorter exposure –If they look good, try a longer 60-second exposure and inspect again .
If you notice small star trails or drift in one direction, that indicates the polar alignment might be off a bit. If you hear it struggling, grinding, or the motion is jerky, the balance might still be off or the load too heavy . In that case, pause and rebalance the system until the motor runs quietly and evenly.
Once your test shots show round stars at 60 seconds, you can confidently push to longer exposures (90s, 120s) depending on your focal length and how well aligned you are. Every setup has a limit, but typically a SkyGuider Pro can achieve 1–2 minute exposures with a wide-angle lens when everything is tuned well. Keep monitoring your images for trailing as you lengthen the exposure – it is easier to fix alignment now than to find out all your shots had trails at the end of the night.
Avoiding Common Pitfalls with Star Trackers
Even with the above steps, beginners often encounter a few recurring issues. Here are some common mistakes to avoid, and how to fix them:
Overloading the Tracker (or No Counterweight)
Poor Polar Alignment
Loose Screws or Flexing Components
Vibrations and Wind: Tripod not sturdy enough
By anticipating these issues, you can avoid the majority of problems that new astrophotographers face when using a star tracker.
Conclusion: Practice Makes Perfect (Which Mount is Right for You?)
Choosing the right mount comes down to your interests and gear. If you’re a beginner shooting wide-angle landscapes of the Milky Way with a DSLR or mirrorless, a small star tracker like the Omegon MiniTrack, iOptron SkyGuider Pro, or Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer will serve you well. These are portable and relatively easy to learn, letting you capture stunning nightscapes that would be impossible on a fixed tripod. For those looking to dive deeper into astrophotography – using medium telephoto lenses or small telescopes – a mid-range equatorial mount such as the Sky-Watcher EQ5 is a solid choice . And if your goal is serious deep-sky imaging with larger telescopes, you will want the high stability of mounts like the Sky-Watcher EQ6-R, which offer the precision and payload capacity for that task .
No matter the mount, the key to success is careful setup and practice. Spend the time to properly polar align and balance your tracker – this effort directly translates to sharper photos. It is normal if the first few nights feel tedious or if you struggle to find Polaris; every session will build your skills. Before long, tasks like setup, alignment, and calibration will become second nature. Do not get discouraged. Even experienced astrophotographers were beginners once, learning by trial and error. With each outing, you will become faster and more confident with your equipment – and your images will keep improving.
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